Chasing Windmills with a Fork

Mass Versus Class

Monday, January 23, 2006

Before any preemptive strikes on my violation of the sacrosanct, lama-esque level of institutionalism that some Washingtonians believe the Old Ebbitt Grill embodies, let it be noted that it is on my list of personal favorites, and shall remain so. Now that we've all genuflected, formality shall be set aside and some mindful, and due critiquing can be accomplished.
I believe to be successful, in its long-term meaning as opposed to a fad that will be as exciting as a wet Kaiser roll next week, you must be consistent. This theory accounts for many successful, such as the Old Ebbitt and many (in my humblest of opinions) failures such as New Heights (see post). The Old Ebbitt has maintained an excellent staff headed by Dave Moran, Kyle Gaffney, and Chef Robert McGowan and their adherence to the Walrus Corporation motto of "Service + Value = Profitability" shows and thrives; you can't buy the crab meat it would take to make their crab cakes cheaper than they sell the entree (a consistent $24.95, sometimes $17.95 in the summer).
What the Old Ebbitt excels at in value and general service it lacks in specific areas where the average diner normally looks as indicators of a restaurants stature. With the floodtide of dining room guests (the place seats 500 and is packed every night, all night) and the massive bar crowd, the Ebbitt is surely to hurt somewhere.
The host staff is cordial, though inconsistent. While some are knowledgeable, friendly and professional, others are merely capable and seem to not enjoy the pressure cooker that I'm sure the maitre'd must endure. One hostess was downright unfriendly as she bemoaned my table number to the lady showing me to my table. Forgive me if my existence doesn't interest you.
The bathrooms were tidy, but awkward. Nice wood paneling on the sinks, marble countertops and old aluminum doors from a South Jersey diner on the stalls. Did they begin redecorating and and forget? It sounds inconsequential, but how a bathroom looks is a huge indicator that a restaurant cares about its customers' total experience.
Soup of the day is a place where a restaurant can showcase a new idea with a relatively low cost of failure; excellent soups, ideas and inspiration can come from this, but instead many establishments use this as a way to get rid of something over ordered...Soup du Jour: Cream of Leftover Vegetable. This regrettably is what the Ebbitt's soups have become.
I must conclude on a positive note, my dinner, my server and my overall experience was superb. Much has been written about this bistro behemoth, but most neglect the flavorful basil vinaigrette that covers the house salad, the experienced servers, the expedient bus staff, and a raw bar selection that is unparalleled across this landlocked town. In addition, the wine list is as extensive in grape varietals as it is in price range.

And let us be honest: there is no better place in the city to people watch than a cozy booth back in Grant's Bar. Consume everything.